![]() It has quite a bit more power available and excellent SQ, plus it is still relatively small and will fit under a seat or on the back wall. Regarding an amplifier, I would step up to the Kenwood eXcelon Reference XR-901.5 if possible. So while it's not the greatest, I would still go with the R-F DSR1 + T-harness if that's the limit of your budget for a DSP, as it also provides OEM integration for Ford audio systems to extract a clean, flat, full-range signal from your OEM Sync head unit. It can make even the OEM factory speakers sound better. So you might look there if that is the direction you decide to go. When I received it, everything was still sealed and looked brand new. FYI I found a great deal Online for an "open box" Kicker Key 200.4 at Best Buy for a friend's install. Having to install both the Kicker Key 200.4 plus the 500.1 or another mono subwoofer amp is kind of a PITA instead of having a single "all-in-one" Auto-EQ amplifier solution for this type of install. I like the Kicker Key amps, but ideally they need to make a 5-channel. ![]() IME most of the lower end Rockford-Fosgate components have a fairly shrill & bright tweeter, and you may want something mellower? eBay used to have some great deals on the newer Sony Mobile ES XS-162ES 6.5" components, especially if you Made an Offer or messaged the seller, but I don't see any listed on eBay at the moment.īut if you will be installing the DSR1 DSP, you could go with raw DIY drivers and run them fully active (a separate DSP & amp channel for each 6.5" midwoofer speaker and each tweeter) which allows much finer control over all aspects of the sound and a better front soundstage and imaging. What type of sound signature do you prefer? Regarding speakers, I would keep the factory rear speakers and put more money into better front 2-way components. While it may save space and be fine for that lower powered shallow sub, it just seems like a "cheap" cost-cutting move. In addition, that R-F subwoofer truck box is made out of 1/2" MDF, and not 3/4" MDF. Seems like a major oversight on their part. The subwoofer is a 2-ohm DVC wired in parallel down to 1-Ohm, but the Alpine amplifier's mono subwoofer channel is only stable down to 2-Ohms. What is your TOTAL BUDGET for this install?Īnd I don't know why the Crutchfield rep would suggest that particular R-F 10" subwoofer/truck box to pair with the that Alpine 5-channel amp they recommended to go with it. I will put my comments questions at each step. I like Crutchfield and spent some time on the phone with one of their advisors but wanted to see what the board thought. ![]() I am lost in the weeds in regards to options. I am mainly concerned with getting a clean ,and preferably turnkey/automated, signal from the factory radio to the speakers. Sync 4 -> Appropriate Harness -> DSP/Amplifier Combo (or separate DSP and amplifier if needed) -> Front Component Speakers and Rear Coax Speakers and Subwoofer Therefore I think a sealed 8-10 inch sub would work perfectly. I listen to 95% rock and occasionally country music. My biggest concern is getting the factory signal from the Sync system into an amp with it sounding as good as possible with the minimum amount of set up on my end because I really don't know what I am doing tuning wise. In no way do I consider myself a big audiophile so I do not need some crazy set up. I've spent a week or so on here reading through various F-150/Super duty builds and felt like I should start my own thread to get some direct advice/questions answeredįactory is Front door, front a pillar tweeters, center channel, rear door
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